I was reading my book on camshafts the other night (yes, nerd I know haha) and it said that if it happens to get out of time this exact thing happens... opens valves at a different time and when piston is at TDC instead of before/after and following it. Maybe check if that was the cause? Or did it run out of oil and seize?

Would it be worth looking into boring and sleeving the whole block as well while it's off the road Don? I know that most of the big diesels out here have that so there's less downtime when it's time to replace the liners... but unsure as to how beneficial it might be for yours? If it's getting rebuilt this often then maybe it could save the block??

I think I'm out of questions and suggestions/ideas. Plus if I make the suggestion that I think would absolutely TOP this car off, Sue would murder me slowly and painfully.

The most likely cause of the failure is a collete coming out as it didn't happen at full noise but rather half way up the rev range.The car has a rev limiter to stop over reving causing valve bounce.As far as sleeving goes the technology now makes this a viable option.This engine has done less than 3000 miles so the bores and pistons etc. are still brand new (except for one).There is a 600HP Cleveland in this months Perth Street Machine that has all 8 cylinders sleeved.The cost of machining a new block to the standard of my current one would be huge.
One thing for sure it will have a stud girdle when it is re-built.

Agreed mate.

Id be checking everything in the motor before contimplating just patching it, better to be safe then sorry

For sure.The crank needs to be checked so everything has to come out.I'll be insisting all the valve springs are replaced as well.Unfortunately the guy who built it is in Canada at the moment so I want to talk to him before I do anything.The reason I say just sleeve 1 cylinder is to keep the cost down.It won't effect the strength of the engine.They sleeve it and bore it to 30 thou like the rest of the bores.The piston has a serial number that allows it to be duplicated to the same weight as the original.No point spending $1500 machining another block when the one I have will do the job just fine.Also Cleveland black blocks are a bit hard to come by in standard bore.
If I had a spare 10K laying around then I'd go for broke but the reality is I don't and I need to fix it within my budget.

i saw the damage today with my own eyes....damn its nasty..thats not including the vavle rod wedged sideways in the bore

Iv'e pretty much decided on the next step with the engine but I need to get it organised.In the meantime I put the thing back together and stuck it in the corner for now.I saw my mates 350 Chev engine on the weekend.His did the same but also cracked the head.His is a full drag engine in an Altered and he reckons it has done 20K damage.Also my nephews ricer drift car has dropped a valve but the damage is limited to the head.Not enough power to f*** it properly

So what is the next plan?

im thinking your gonna go big with it?!

well?? are there going to be plans announced publicly or what?

It's going in the back yard to be used as a pot plant stand
I'm not talking to it at the moment

hahahahahaha oh yeah, I know that feeling

Want to oblitterate it, but can't talk yourself into doing it because you keep thinking about how much time and $$ has gone into it etc.

A few people asked me on the wekend about the XW so here is a quick update.The engine is sitting in my shed and will be getting done when I get back from holidays in August.The plan is to get it running by the end September and enter it in Motorvation with PF.The extent of the damage in the engine will determine whether it goes back together as it was or if it will be getting a stroker kit.
Here's a pic of it today munching on some rice.

Vote 1 Stroker kit

http://www.atracingworld.com/index.php?tar...roduct_id=30140




tempting much?

Yer Jais but I'm not sure of the quality of the Procomp stuff.It's cheap but is it any good?The kit I'm looking at is a 408 one from the states.